Argentina Travel Blog

This memorable drive links San Martin de Los Andes, the nearby Chapelco ski resort, and Bariloche. It  passes through rugged landscapes, fantastic rock formations and the unbelievably clear waters of the Traful.

 

 

The music on this video is by guitarist Cacho Tirao, and is titled "Ya Esta Hecha La Rosa".

The map below shows our drive in yellow.

 

The dirt road is rough, rutty, at times narrow and hilly. It has a few scary hairpin curves and is not well maintained, so ask around to make sure conditions are safe before you go. Once you get to Confluencia, you'll turn right onto Ruta 237, a paved and well-traveled road, to get to Bariloche.   The map is provided courtesy of the San Martin de Los Andes municipality. 

There's a spectacular view of mountains, rock formations and the beautiful Rio Limay on Ruta 237 not far from Bariloche.  My video skills do not do it justice, but you get a glimpse of the incredible beauty of the Valle Encantado.

The province of Corrientes in northeastern Argentina features an astonishing natural wonder – South America’s second largest wetland, 65 times the size of Buenos Aires.

 

 

With exotic wildlife such as the capybara, marsh deer, howler monkeys, alligators, and fresh water otters, as well as 350 species of birds, this nature reserve is making the list of travelers in the know.

The remote, small town of Colonia Carlos Pellegrini is the starting off point for this adventure. A wide range of activities are available - guided boat rides and horseback excursions, as well as canoeing, biking and hiking. Birdwatchers can tick off unique birds from their lists including (with some luck) the elusive Strange-tailed Tyrant. The highly rated lodges of the area include outdoor pools among the lush scenery and gourmet dining.

But there's more than just spectacular scenery and biodiversity this area has to offer. Corrientes is home to a unique culture that combines Catholicism with local saints/spirits. These traditions are reflected in local speech, religious fetes, music and dance.

If you’re seeking a unique experience off the beaten track in an exotic natural setting, this trip is for you. Best time to visit Esteros del Iberá is May - December to avoid the summer heat.

These travel articles rave about the experience and provide travel details:

in - LAN’s travel magazine includes tips on where to stay and how to get there
Lugares Magazine gives you the inside scoop
The Star wrote about Esteros del Iberá in their eco-tourism section

Visitor information from local organizations:
Corrientes government tourism office
Esteros del Iberá info

With over 40 ferias (street fairs, flea markets) in Buenos Aires, how do you decide where to focus your time?  While I have not visited all of them, I have done extensive research and enlisted the help of my Buenos Aires correspondents (aka my cousins Isa, Pilar and Carol) to point out the best ferias.  Aside from this post, check out my Quick Guide  on ferias for a comprehensive list, including hours, addresses and available links.   

For Fashionistas

Check out the vibrant fashion scene at the FERIA DE DISEÑO in Plaza Serrano (Serrano 1557) in Palermo Hollywood.  It features clothing from up and coming Argentinean designers, as well as shoes, accessories, and crafts.  The vibe is fun, young and trendy.  Take a break in one of the numerous neighboring bars and restaurants.  Carol recommends Oro y Candido, a combination food market and restaurant. Walk over to the feria in the PLAZA CORTAZAR, for crafts, jewelry and leather goods.  Later in the day, Isa advises a visit to the nearby Las Cañitas neighborhood.  It’s currently the hottest place for trendy Argentineans.
      
Hours: Wednesday thru Friday 2pm to 8pm
Saturday, Sunday and holidays 3pm to 9pm  

For Bookworms

Head over to the Caballito neighborhood to the PARQUE RIVADAVIA (aka PARQUE LEZICA, Av. Rivadavia and Rosario) to browse through books and magazines.  You’ll also find used albums and CDs.  There’s also a section for stamp and coin collectors.

Hours: Every day from 10am to 7pm   

For Hard Core Folklore

In Mataderos, PASEO ALBERDI (Av. Lisandro de la Torre and Av.Directorio) features 400 stalls specializing in traditional Argentinean folkloric art – think gaucho belts, mates, knives, silver pieces, and leather goods.  The vibe is rustic and authentic. Traditional foods, music, and performances (dance, horse riding shows, concerts) also figure prominently.

Check their website for hours – usually it’s afternoons and evenings on Sunday.  The site provides updates on special events and shows.  The season begins April 5, 2009.  

For Antiquing

The world renowned feria in PLAZA DORREGO at the Feria de SAN Telmo (Humberto I and Defensa) has been featured as one of the "Top 10 Markets” by Travel and Leisure.  Vendors offer antiques as well as crafts, and performers put on tango shows.  With 270 stalls, the varied performances and nearby restaurants and bars, you’ll spend a wonderful Sunday afternoon in this one-of-a–kind market.  

Hours: Sundays, 10am to 5pm.

For Bargains, Waterviews and A Break From The City

Want to get away for the day?  Take a cab or remis and head over to the river delta in Tigre and check out the PUERTO DE FRUTOS (Sarmiento and Córdoba).  It’s about a 40 minute drive but you’ll feel like you’re a world away.  The Puerto de Frutos feria features jewelry, leather goods, crafts and furniture, with a special emphasis on wicker goods.  There are numerous food stands, and bars and restaurants close by.  Make a day of it and take a river cruise, visit the amusement park and try your luck at the casino. 

Hours: Weekdays from 10am to 6pm, Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 10am to 7pm.  Not all stands are open on weekdays.

Quick Tips for Shopping at the Ferias:

• Wear shoes made for all day walking.  Some of these ferias are vast, and some are next to other ferias in adjoining parks, so you want to have energy and be pain free to stroll comfortably for extended periods.
•  Dress comfortably.  If you visit in the summer, it can get hot, so dress for the weather. This is not an excuse, however, to dress like a slob. Daisy Duke shorts, shoddy sweat suits, wife beater tanks, sloppy t-shirts and droopy pants will make you stick out like an unsophisticated outsider in cosmopolitan Buenos Aires. Yikes, I sound like my mother!  Good advice, though.
• Cash is king (and usually the only option for feria shopping), but be careful of pickpockets and purse snatchers.  They are looking for distracted tourists.  Put your bills in a money belt if possible, and leave the purse, along with your good jewelry in a safe in the hotel room.

In the rare case of problems with vendors, or any difficulty you may experience as a tourist, call the tourist office of the government of Buenos Aires, at 0800 999 2838 (toll free from anywhere in Argentina).  

Note:  Most of the web sites I’ve included are in Spanish.  If you don’t know the language but are an enthusiastic shopper, I encourage you to take some time to navigate the sites anyway, because often there are photos and descriptions of the products, websites and even contact information for each individual artist/vendor.

This beautiful video highlights an easy summer hike from the base of Cerro (Mount) Catedral to Refugio Frey at the summit. It takes about three and a half hours and starts at the parking lot of Cerro Catedral, a 20 minute drive from Bariloche. My advice - go on the hike in early spring (November) or later in the summer (February and March) to avoid the tábanos (horseflies). If you do want to enjoy the hike in December-January wear long pants, long sleeves, a hat, and try some insect repellent.  Extra maximum strength insect repellent...

The wild lupines you see in the beginning of the video are quite a sight. In early spring they form a blanket covering much of the mountains and the roadside. The yellow flower is the amancay (alstroemeria aurea), a beautiful symbol of the region. 

Personally, I spend most of my time in Bariloche when I travel to Argentina.  Bariloche is located in Patagonia, in a region of mountain and lakes, southwest of Buenos Aires, on the border with Chile.  You get there via a 2.5 hour flight from BA.  Golfing, flyfishing, hiking are just a few of the summer activities available.  For a fun day trip, consider white water rafting with Aguas Blancas.  I went on the Class III/IV Rio Manso rafting trip . 

It starts with the Aguas Blancas crew picking you up at your hotel early in the morning, in their spacious vans. You're on the road for about an hour and a half.  The views are beautiful and the guides keep you entertained by sharing some mate (the tea of the gauchos) and by pointing out the notable sights along the way.  When you arrive at the launching site, you'll be served a breakfast of pastries and coffee.  You'll need the energy, so enjoy plenty of it.  Next, you're provided with wet suits, helmets and life jackets and given rowing and safety instructions.  Most of the guides speak English and they'll make sure you and your friends are assigned to a raft where instructions are given primarily or exclusively in English.  Then you are off!  

The trip starts calmly enough.  After all, Rio Manso means "tame river" so you would expect this smooth ride.  The Aguas Blancas team includes guides on kayaks, in case anyone falls out of their rafts or the raft guides need extra help.  Enjoy the calm while it lasts. Soon enough the white water appears and you're in for a thrilling ride! 

                                      

You'll raft for about 2 hours, arriving at the border with Chile, where the Aguas Blancas vans meet you.  After you change back into your clothes you'll all pile back into the van and be driven to the initial starting point on the Rio Manso.  Mmmmm... an asado (barbeque) is waiting for you, and you are ravenous.  After the late lunch, you're on the van back to Bariloche.  On the way, half the van is chatting and the other half is snoring.  It was a long, thrilling and unforgettable day.  Aguas Blancas provides a photographer so you can focus on the experience and still leave Bariloche with photos - the team will have a CD ready for you in a day or two. 

 The guides are a significant part of the experience. Our guide Juan had unlimited energy and was hilarious.  Also, you're most likely sharing the experience with visitors from all over the world and you'll get a chance to know them better during meals and drives.

Aside from this outing, Aguas Blancas also has a Class II/III trip and 2-day excursions that combine rafting with horseback riding or mountain biking. 

"Row, you bunch of lazy grannies! ROW!", yells Juan. 

We can't help but laugh and enjoy the rapids.

Our team, the blue raft, celebrates the end of a great ride, on the Chilean border.

An estancia is an Argentinean ranch, a country house.  Several open their doors to visitors and offer a variety of services and activities.  You can find estancias that are perfect for relaxing and enjoying the outdoors - some even provide spa services.  Others specialize in bird watching.  Most estancias offer horse riding, strolls in horse driven carriages and gaucho shows.  Want to try your hand at polo?  Find estancias that offer beginner classes.  Other activities often include golf, tennis, bike riding and fishing.  Oh, and pack your bathing suit - most estancias have a pool.

Within an hour or two (by car) of Buenos Aires, there are over 20 estancias to chose from.  They range from the super luxurious to the basic.  Prices are very reasonable -  as little as $200 per person per night, including all meals and basic activities. 

Estancieros are very proud of their culinary offerings and their traditions.  You will be treated to an asado (a full Argentinean barbeque), mate (traditional gaucho tea) and fantastic wine.  Most estancias will happily accommodate your taste and dietary requirements if you let them know ahead of time.

Welcomeargentina.com has compiled a nice list of estancias close to Buenos Aires.  Check out their photo galleries to see the beautiful airy rooms, the grounds, the dining options.  As I look at my plummeting thermometer and 8" of snow in my backyard here in New England, I wish I could make a reservation right now...(sigh)

Here are a few more to check out:

• Estancia Santa Susana - their standard service offers a 1/2 day of activities and meals, no overnights. Perfect if you're pressed for time
• Estancia Santa Rita
• Estancia Juan Gerónimo
• Estancia El Silencio

An acquaintance visited Estancia Monte Viejo last month and reports back that she had a great time. 

Please note that there are many estancias outside of Buenos Aires province.  I'll do some research and include those in upcoming posts. 

I would love to share your experiences with other readers, so please add your comments.

Estancia Santa Susana

Share a mate with a friendly gaucho!

Let's say you are on a business trip in Buenos Aires and have only one day to yourself.  What can you do that takes little planning, a minimum amount of energy (you are tired from work and travel!) but gives you a good flavor of the city?  Here's what I would do. 

• Check out Calle Florida, a pedestrian-only area for strolling/shopping.  If you are shopping for clothes and shoes, the Galeria Pacifico located at one end of Calle Florida is an upscale mall but you can get some good deals there.  Stop by Freddo's for a dulce de leche ice cream.
• For lunch -- and for a break from the crowds --  take a cab and go to the Puerto Madero area; lots of restaurant choices, and a boardwalk for strolling and people watching. 
• If you want to walk off your lunch and/or still have some energy left, walk down the Avenida de Mayo (see map).  You'll pass by the Cabildo (historical seat of government, corner of Av. de Mayo and Bolivar), the Café Tortoni (famous and oldest café in Buenos Aires, Av. de Mayo 825) and see some spectacular architecture along the way.  You can cross over to the Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest in the world, or you can keep going down Av. de Mayo and check out the Congress building. 

 
View Larger Map

• At night, visit the Viejo Almacén  for dinner and a tango show.  Some say it's a bit touristy.  I say they have great performances and the place just oozes with tradition and history. 

If you'd like more suggestions, here's an insider's view .

Visited these places lately?  What did you think? 

 

View of Puerto Madero and the Puente de la Mujer (Women's Bridge).  The Argentinean tall ship ARA Fragata Libertad, used by the navy for training purposes, was stationed there on my last visit.