Argentina Travel Blog

Although the name of Argentina's capital, Buenos Aires (Good Airs) would imply that it belongs on Travel + Leisure's top 10 list, Patagonia deserves the honor.  Visitors confirm that the air is clear and feels purer as you breathe it in.  And at night the lack of smog and light pollution brings out every little star. 

This volcano is located in Chile, on the border with Argentina in Patagonia (see the map below with volcano, not to scale and enhanced for dramatic effect). The volcano erupted last May and although there was no loss of human life, the town of Chaitén was completely covered in ash and residents were evacuated. 

The volcano has once again increased its activity, recently spewing a 6 mile column of ash and causing earthquakes.  The Volcanism Blog is posting ongoing reports and photos.  El Cordillerano, a newspaper based in Bariloche, also has up to date reports (Spanish only).

The town of Chaitén has been evacuated, although there are some inhabitants who are refusing to leave.  Other communities are not in direct danger, although the dust and ash is currently affecting towns 60 miles away.  Governmental organizations are distributing drinking water, eye wash and headscarves to disrupted areas.

The volcano could have more far-reaching effects as continued ash eruption and wind patterns could spread dust all the way to Buenos Aires.  This dust activity was mild in the city last year and did not stick around very long.  The most important consequence for visitors to Argentina is the possible disruption of air traffic for domestic flights if the dust clouds spread and encompass flight paths.  Check progress with your travel agent or airline and have a back up plan (options: bus or car rental) in case your flight is cancelled.  

Photo from El Cordillerano

Reference map

Personally, I spend most of my time in Bariloche when I travel to Argentina.  Bariloche is located in Patagonia, in a region of mountain and lakes, southwest of Buenos Aires, on the border with Chile.  You get there via a 2.5 hour flight from BA.  Golfing, flyfishing, hiking are just a few of the summer activities available.  For a fun day trip, consider white water rafting with Aguas Blancas.  I went on the Class III/IV Rio Manso rafting trip . 

It starts with the Aguas Blancas crew picking you up at your hotel early in the morning, in their spacious vans. You're on the road for about an hour and a half.  The views are beautiful and the guides keep you entertained by sharing some mate (the tea of the gauchos) and by pointing out the notable sights along the way.  When you arrive at the launching site, you'll be served a breakfast of pastries and coffee.  You'll need the energy, so enjoy plenty of it.  Next, you're provided with wet suits, helmets and life jackets and given rowing and safety instructions.  Most of the guides speak English and they'll make sure you and your friends are assigned to a raft where instructions are given primarily or exclusively in English.  Then you are off!  

The trip starts calmly enough.  After all, Rio Manso means "tame river" so you would expect this smooth ride.  The Aguas Blancas team includes guides on kayaks, in case anyone falls out of their rafts or the raft guides need extra help.  Enjoy the calm while it lasts. Soon enough the white water appears and you're in for a thrilling ride! 

You'll raft for about 2 hours, arriving at the border with Chile, where the Aguas Blancas vans meet you.  After you change back into your clothes you'll all pile back into the van and be driven to the initial starting point on the Rio Manso.  Mmmmm... an asado (barbeque) is waiting for you, and you are ravenous.  After the late lunch, you're on the van back to Bariloche.  On the way, half the van is chatting and the other half is snoring.  It was a long, thrilling and unforgettable day.  Aguas Blancas provides a photographer so you can focus on the experience and still leave Bariloche with photos - the team will have a CD ready for you in a day or two. 

 The guides are a significant part of the experience. Our guide Juan had unlimited energy and was hilarious.  Also, you're most likely sharing the experience with visitors from all over the world and you'll get a chance to know them better during meals and drives.

Aside from this outing, Aguas Blancas also has a Class II/III trip and 2-day excursions that combine rafting with horseback riding or mountain biking. 

"Row, you bunch of lazy grannies! ROW!", yells Juan. 

We can't help but laugh and enjoy the rapids.

Our team, the blue raft, celebrates the end of a great ride, on the Chilean border.

Hats off to the Today Show team for a wonderful segment on Argentina. Matt Lauer and crew delivered a well-researched, accurate, and entertaining episode.  This was filmed last April - the beginning of fall in Argentina.  I can't think of a better quick course on visiting Argentina.  

Matt really seemed to enjoy his time in Patagonia, too.    Nice poncho, Matt!  Did you know that the colors and patterns of the poncho indicate region and history, just like Scottish tartans?  That's a subject for a subsequent post....