My new Twitter pals at Buenos Aires Life know a thing or two about what’s going on in the city and where to dine.  Here’s what’s at the top of their list:

• La Cabrera  Reasonably priced traditional Argentinean parilla/steakhouse.
  Cabrera 5099,  Palermo Soho  Tel: 4831-7002
  
• Osaka  Peruvian-Japanese fusion restaurant getting rave reviews.
  Soler 5608, Palermo  Tel: 4775-6964
  
• Cabaña Las Lilas  Superior steakhouse with an impressive wine list.
  Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 516,  Puerto Madero.   Tel: 4313-1336
  
• Green Bamboo – Authentic Vietnamese cuisine in a seductive setting. 
  Costa Rica 5802, Palermo  Tel: 4775-7050
  
• Sucre  A modern take on Argentinean and South American gastronomy.
  Sucre 676,  Belgrano Tel: 4782-9082
  
• Sudestada Southeast Asian fare, a welcome option for those seeking spicy food in BA
  Guatemala 5602,  Palermo Hollywood  Tel: 4776-3777
  
• Dashi Arguably the best Sushi restaurant in Buenos Aires
  Fitz Roy 1613 and Gorriti,  Palermo Hollywood  Tel: 4776-3500
  
• Mama Racha  Great restaurant and outdoor café for a lunch or snack any time of day.
  Costa Rica and Armenia, Palermo  Tel: 4833-4950

Chances are you will have a positive dining experience in any restaurant you visit in Buenos Aires.  But if your priority is to go to the best restaurants the city has to offer, let me point you to some authoritative sources: 

Arguably the most respected restaurant guide is Vidal Buzzi (in Spanish).  Their top ranked restaurants include:

• Le Mistral  - Contemporary Mediterranean, including tapas, at the Four Seasons Hotel. 
  Posadas 1086, Barrio Norte Tel: 4321-1730
  
• Tomo 1 – Contemporary Argentine, with excellent wine list, at the Panamericano Hotel
  Carlos Pellegrini 521,  San Nicolas  Tel: 4326-6695
  (It's also my mom’s favorite restaurant in Buenos Aires)
  
• Oviedo – Award winning Spanish cuisine,  Beruti 2602, Recoleta Teléfono: 4821-3741

Guia Oleo (in Spanish) offers a very complete restaurant guide.  Some restaurants at the top of their rating lists are:

• Casa Coupage – Wine tastings, individual attention and New Argentine cuisine in an intimate setting.  Reservations required.
  Güemes 4382 1st floor, Palermo  Tel: 4833-6354
  
• Nectarine – Superior French restaurant
  Vicente López 1661, Recoleta Tel: 4813-6993
  
• La Bourgogne –  French cuisine in the beautiful Alvear Palace Hotel
  Ayacucho 2027, Recoleta  Tel: 4808-2100/4805-3857
  
• El Baqueano – Exotic Argentinean meats and fish, including llama, boar and cayman
  Chile 495 and Bolivar, San Telmo  Tel: 4342-0802

There are 5 major shopping malls in Buenos Aires, concentrated in the Recoleta/Palermo area (see map below).  You will see recognizable stores and brands (Calvin Klein, Christian Dior, Nike, The Gap) but most of the stores feature Argentinean brands and designs.  There is much overlap in stores from one mall to another, so it’s not likely that you’ll get value from visiting all of them.  If there’s a particular store you are looking for, visit the websites I’ve included.  They have complete listings of stores, along with links to their sites. 

Patio Bullrich 

This modern, luxurious mall features international brands – Armani, Calvin Klein, Christian Dior and Ferragamo – as well as top Argentinean designers.  Prune is a good choice for high end leather jackets. Trosman offers unique design in women’s clothing.  Stop at the Havanna store to stock up on some sweet treats – alfajores and Havannets are our favorites. 

Galerias Pacifico 

This mall, located on one corner of the pedestrian shopping area in Calle Florida, features high end Argentinean stores within its majestic architecture.  The fabulous murals give it a classic European feel reason alone to visit this mall   For women’s fashion, Paula Cahen D’Anvers store has contemporary, very wearable designs.  Rapsodia’s designs are more trendy and boho, for the younger set.  Legacy is a very popular men’s brand for casual wear.  Try Lopez Taibo for well-crafted, classically designed men’s dress shoes.  The popular Blaque store features women’s shoes, leather jackets and handbags.   Casa Lopez is another good choice for handbags.

Alto Palermo  

This modern mall had a major renovation last year.  Head over to Mimo & Company for clothes for the cool kid in your life.  Kill has contemporary designs for the modern woman.  Cardon Cosas Nuestras features traditional Argentinean wear with a modern twist – jackets, boots, sweaters and even gaucho pants.  

Paseo Alcorta

Most of the stores in Paseo Alcorta feature Argentinean labels.  Cheeky has cute kid’s clothes.  Clara Ibarguren’s designs are fun for every day wear.  Etiqueta Negra has high end menswear. 

Abasto

If you’re traveling with kids, head over to Abasto.  Between visits to the stores, you can spend some time in the amusement park and the children’s museum.  Daniel Hechter offers men’s clothing, described as urban, modern and sophisticated.  La Martina has clothing and accessories based on their polo heritage.

Outside the city center: Unicenter

Another notable mall is Unicenter, located in Martinez.    This enormous mall, located in Martinez, encompasses trendy and affordable brands such as Zara and C&A, with some higher end stores like Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.  Unicenter also houses a 14 screen movie theater, a major department store – Falabella - and a hypermarket –Jumbo.

With over 40 ferias (street fairs, flea markets) in Buenos Aires, how do you decide where to focus your time?  While I have not visited all of them, I have done extensive research and enlisted the help of my Buenos Aires correspondents (aka my cousins Isa, Pilar and Carol) to point out the best ferias.  Aside from this post, check out my Quick Guide  on ferias for a comprehensive list, including hours, addresses and available links.   

For Fashionistas

Check out the vibrant fashion scene at the FERIA DE DISEÑO in Plaza Serrano (Serrano 1557) in Palermo Hollywood.  It features clothing from up and coming Argentinean designers, as well as shoes, accessories, and crafts.  The vibe is fun, young and trendy.  Take a break in one of the numerous neighboring bars and restaurants.  Carol recommends Oro y Candido, a combination food market and restaurant. Walk over to the feria in the PLAZA CORTAZAR, for crafts, jewelry and leather goods.  Later in the day, Isa advises a visit to the nearby Las Cañitas neighborhood.  It’s currently the hottest place for trendy Argentineans.
      
Hours: Wednesday thru Friday 2pm to 8pm
Saturday, Sunday and holidays 3pm to 9pm  

For Bookworms

Head over to the Caballito neighborhood to the PARQUE RIVADAVIA (aka PARQUE LEZICA, Av. Rivadavia and Rosario) to browse through books and magazines.  You’ll also find used albums and CDs.  There’s also a section for stamp and coin collectors.

Hours: Every day from 10am to 7pm   

For Hard Core Folklore

In Mataderos, PASEO ALBERDI (Av. Lisandro de la Torre and Av.Directorio) features 400 stalls specializing in traditional Argentinean folkloric art – think gaucho belts, mates, knives, silver pieces, and leather goods.  The vibe is rustic and authentic. Traditional foods, music, and performances (dance, horse riding shows, concerts) also figure prominently.

Check their website for hours – usually it’s afternoons and evenings on Sunday.  The site provides updates on special events and shows.  The season begins April 5, 2009.  

For Antiquing

The world renowned feria in PLAZA DORREGO at the Feria de SAN Telmo (Humberto I and Defensa) has been featured as one of the "Top 10 Markets” by Travel and Leisure.  Vendors offer antiques as well as crafts, and performers put on tango shows.  With 270 stalls, the varied performances and nearby restaurants and bars, you’ll spend a wonderful Sunday afternoon in this one-of-a–kind market.  

Hours: Sundays, 10am to 5pm.

For Bargains, Waterviews and A Break From The City

Want to get away for the day?  Take a cab or remis and head over to the river delta in Tigre and check out the PUERTO DE FRUTOS (Sarmiento and Córdoba).  It’s about a 40 minute drive but you’ll feel like you’re a world away.  The Puerto de Frutos feria features jewelry, leather goods, crafts and furniture, with a special emphasis on wicker goods.  There are numerous food stands, and bars and restaurants close by.  Make a day of it and take a river cruise, visit the amusement park and try your luck at the casino. 

Hours: Weekdays from 10am to 6pm, Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 10am to 7pm.  Not all stands are open on weekdays.

Quick Tips for Shopping at the Ferias:

• Wear shoes made for all day walking.  Some of these ferias are vast, and some are next to other ferias in adjoining parks, so you want to have energy and be pain free to stroll comfortably for extended periods.
•  Dress comfortably.  If you visit in the summer, it can get hot, so dress for the weather. This is not an excuse, however, to dress like a slob. Daisy Duke shorts, shoddy sweat suits, wife beater tanks, sloppy t-shirts and droopy pants will make you stick out like an unsophisticated outsider in cosmopolitan Buenos Aires. Yikes, I sound like my mother!  Good advice, though.
• Cash is king (and usually the only option for feria shopping), but be careful of pickpockets and purse snatchers.  They are looking for distracted tourists.  Put your bills in a money belt if possible, and leave the purse, along with your good jewelry in a safe in the hotel room.

In the rare case of problems with vendors, or any difficulty you may experience as a tourist, call the tourist office of the government of Buenos Aires, at 0800 999 2838 (toll free from anywhere in Argentina).  

Note:  Most of the web sites I’ve included are in Spanish.  If you don’t know the language but are an enthusiastic shopper, I encourage you to take some time to navigate the sites anyway, because often there are photos and descriptions of the products, websites and even contact information for each individual artist/vendor.

The best way for visitors to get around the city is by taxi.  They are inexpensive, ubiquitous, available at all hours and will get you to your destination quickly.  The taxis are unmistakable in their black-and-yellow.  They are generally safe, but it’s best to stick with taxis that have their company name and phone number printed on them on the passenger door (I've indicated this with a red circle in the photo below).  This indicates that they are properly licensed.

Cabbies, like many porteños (inhabitants of Buenos Aires), can be aggressive drivers.  If you feel like your driver is trying out for a spot on the Formula One circuit, say “un poco mas despacio (des-PAH-see-oh), por favor.” - a bit slower, please.  The drivers are usually friendly and often chatty if you engage them in conversation. 

Fares are regulated by the municipality, and start at a little over US$1 ($3.80 in pesos).  For most destinations in the center of the city, you would pay less than US$10.  Tip your driver a couple of pesos if he/she is helping you with bags and luggage.  Other than that, just round up the fare to the next peso or two.  Make sure you have change (“cambio”) before you get in the cab, because invariably your cabbie will not have any.

Remises – a town car and driver – are also readily available for rides to airports or other situations where you may need more room and/or comfort for passengers and luggage.  My uncle passed along this list of licensed remises and taxis (gracias, Daniel!) and direct links to a few cab companies:

• Radio Taxi Pidalo
• Radio Taxi Tiempo
• Taxi Premium

You also have the option of hiring a cab by the hour, for a minimum of two hours, at a rate of about US$11 ($37 pesos) an hour.  

From Ezeiza

A remis ride from the international airport (Ezeiza) to the center will run about US$40 ($141 in pesos).  You can hire a remis at the airport or make a reservation ahead of time.

A well known transportation company, Manuel Tienda León lets you make reservations on line.  

A cab ride will cost about US$25 ($86 pesos).   Taxi and remis stands are located at various points in Ezeiza (click here). There are also shuttle buses available.  To make sure you don’t get ripped off, NEVER take a ride from a cabbie who approaches you as you leave the customs area.  Go to one of the stands to ensure service from a licensed driver.

On my next trip to Argentina, I will definitely go back to Siga La Vaca, an excellent, inexpensive all-you-can-eat restaurant with several locations in central Buenos Aires and the suburbs (see map).  For US$20 per person you can indulge in appetizers, excellent beef, chicken, and/or pork, salad bar fare, sides and dessert.  Your first drink (wine, beer or soft drink) is also included.  Stop by for lunch on a weekday, and you pay less than US$15.  Incredible!

I visited their location in Pilar, a suburb of Buenos Aires.  The restaurant was spacious, warmly lit and had a fun, informal ambience.  It's family-friendly and can get a bit noisy.  The food was great - fresh, high quality meat grilled to your taste.  My favorite part of the meal was going up to the counter for seconds.  The asadores (grill cooks) display the meat, fresh off the grill, and you just point to what you like.  You'll see familiar food like steak, beef kebabs, chorizo (sausage) and chicken breast, along with some cuts and parts that may be new to you such as morcilla (black pudding), mollejas (sweet breads) and chinchulines (small intestine).  I really recommend that you try anything new.  "Just take a small bite," as your mom used to insist.  If you don't like it, you didn't waste your money and you can move on to something else you might like.  When else are you going to get such a great opportunity to discover new foods?  I'll bet that you become a fan of at least one of these adventurous foods andthat you find yourself back at that counter.  

The other nice thing about SLV is that you'll dine among regular Argentinean families. This may be the closest you get to a traditional family asado - the food, the laughter, the easy-going mood, the amped-up protein levels.  This is less true of the Puerto Madero location where half the clients are tourists, but on the other hand, this particular restaurant is open continuously from noon until 2am, accommodating both American and Argentinean dining schedules.  The restaurants are popular, and although they can take in over 400 diners in some locations, there may be a wait during peak times. 

SLV locations in Central Buenos Aires.  They also have a take out place in Belgrano and restaurants in Pilar and San Isidro

View Larger Map  

When you think of all-you-can-eat, the term "wine choices" doesn't immediately leap to mind.  Unless you are in Argentina!

Let's say you are on a business trip in Buenos Aires and have only one day to yourself.  What can you do that takes little planning, a minimum amount of energy (you are tired from work and travel!) but gives you a good flavor of the city?  Here's what I would do. 

• Check out Calle Florida, a pedestrian-only area for strolling/shopping.  If you are shopping for clothes and shoes, the Galeria Pacifico located at one end of Calle Florida is an upscale mall but you can get some good deals there.  Stop by Freddo's for a dulce de leche ice cream.
• For lunch -- and for a break from the crowds --  take a cab and go to the Puerto Madero area; lots of restaurant choices, and a boardwalk for strolling and people watching. 
• If you want to walk off your lunch and/or still have some energy left, walk down the Avenida de Mayo (see map).  You'll pass by the Cabildo (historical seat of government, corner of Av. de Mayo and Bolivar), the Café Tortoni (famous and oldest café in Buenos Aires, Av. de Mayo 825) and see some spectacular architecture along the way.  You can cross over to the Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest in the world, or you can keep going down Av. de Mayo and check out the Congress building. 

 
View Larger Map

• At night, visit the Viejo Almacén  for dinner and a tango show.  Some say it's a bit touristy.  I say they have great performances and the place just oozes with tradition and history. 

If you'd like more suggestions, here's an insider's view .

Visited these places lately?  What did you think? 

View of Puerto Madero and the Puente de la Mujer (Women's Bridge).  The Argentinean tall ship ARA Fragata Libertad, used by the navy for training purposes, was stationed there on my last visit.