Argentina Travel Blog

In January, my cousin and I took an easy 4 hour hike to the Frey mountain shelter. It was a beautiful day, the horseflies kept to themselves for the most part, and we were rewarded with stunning views of lake Gutierrez, condors circling gracefully, effortlessly high above, the many peaks of Cerro Catedral, and, at the top, the majestic spires surronding scenic lake Toncek.

We hiked this in an afternoon, but you can spend the night at the shelter and take side trips from there. For more information on this and other shelters, visit Club Andino Bariloche  and go to the Refugios y Campings page. There you will find information in Spanish and English.

This memorable drive links San Martin de Los Andes, the nearby Chapelco ski resort, and Bariloche. It  passes through rugged landscapes, fantastic rock formations and the unbelievably clear waters of the Traful.

 

 

The music on this video is by guitarist Cacho Tirao, and is titled "Ya Esta Hecha La Rosa".

The map below shows our drive in yellow.

 

The dirt road is rough, rutty, at times narrow and hilly. It has a few scary hairpin curves and is not well maintained, so ask around to make sure conditions are safe before you go. Once you get to Confluencia, you'll turn right onto Ruta 237, a paved and well-traveled road, to get to Bariloche.   The map is provided courtesy of the San Martin de Los Andes municipality. 

There's a spectacular view of mountains, rock formations and the beautiful Rio Limay on Ruta 237 not far from Bariloche.  My video skills do not do it justice, but you get a glimpse of the incredible beauty of the Valle Encantado.

This volcano is located in Chile, on the border with Argentina in Patagonia (see the map below with volcano, not to scale and enhanced for dramatic effect). The volcano erupted last May and although there was no loss of human life, the town of Chaitén was completely covered in ash and residents were evacuated. 

 

The volcano has once again increased its activity, recently spewing a 6 mile column of ash and causing earthquakes.  The Volcanism Blog is posting ongoing reports and photos.  El Cordillerano, a newspaper based in Bariloche, also has up to date reports (Spanish only).

The town of Chaitén has been evacuated, although there are some inhabitants who are refusing to leave.  Other communities are not in direct danger, although the dust and ash is currently affecting towns 60 miles away.  Governmental organizations are distributing drinking water, eye wash and headscarves to disrupted areas.

The volcano could have more far-reaching effects as continued ash eruption and wind patterns could spread dust all the way to Buenos Aires.  This dust activity was mild in the city last year and did not stick around very long.  The most important consequence for visitors to Argentina is the possible disruption of air traffic for domestic flights if the dust clouds spread and encompass flight paths.  Check progress with your travel agent or airline and have a back up plan (options: bus or car rental) in case your flight is cancelled.  

Photo from El Cordillerano

Reference map

This beautiful video highlights an easy summer hike from the base of Cerro (Mount) Catedral to Refugio Frey at the summit. It takes about three and a half hours and starts at the parking lot of Cerro Catedral, a 20 minute drive from Bariloche. My advice - go on the hike in early spring (November) or later in the summer (February and March) to avoid the tábanos (horseflies). If you do want to enjoy the hike in December-January wear long pants, long sleeves, a hat, and try some insect repellent.  Extra maximum strength insect repellent...

The wild lupines you see in the beginning of the video are quite a sight. In early spring they form a blanket covering much of the mountains and the roadside. The yellow flower is the amancay (alstroemeria aurea), a beautiful symbol of the region. 

Personally, I spend most of my time in Bariloche when I travel to Argentina.  Bariloche is located in Patagonia, in a region of mountain and lakes, southwest of Buenos Aires, on the border with Chile.  You get there via a 2.5 hour flight from BA.  Golfing, flyfishing, hiking are just a few of the summer activities available.  For a fun day trip, consider white water rafting with Aguas Blancas.  I went on the Class III/IV Rio Manso rafting trip . 

It starts with the Aguas Blancas crew picking you up at your hotel early in the morning, in their spacious vans. You're on the road for about an hour and a half.  The views are beautiful and the guides keep you entertained by sharing some mate (the tea of the gauchos) and by pointing out the notable sights along the way.  When you arrive at the launching site, you'll be served a breakfast of pastries and coffee.  You'll need the energy, so enjoy plenty of it.  Next, you're provided with wet suits, helmets and life jackets and given rowing and safety instructions.  Most of the guides speak English and they'll make sure you and your friends are assigned to a raft where instructions are given primarily or exclusively in English.  Then you are off!  

The trip starts calmly enough.  After all, Rio Manso means "tame river" so you would expect this smooth ride.  The Aguas Blancas team includes guides on kayaks, in case anyone falls out of their rafts or the raft guides need extra help.  Enjoy the calm while it lasts. Soon enough the white water appears and you're in for a thrilling ride! 

                                      

You'll raft for about 2 hours, arriving at the border with Chile, where the Aguas Blancas vans meet you.  After you change back into your clothes you'll all pile back into the van and be driven to the initial starting point on the Rio Manso.  Mmmmm... an asado (barbeque) is waiting for you, and you are ravenous.  After the late lunch, you're on the van back to Bariloche.  On the way, half the van is chatting and the other half is snoring.  It was a long, thrilling and unforgettable day.  Aguas Blancas provides a photographer so you can focus on the experience and still leave Bariloche with photos - the team will have a CD ready for you in a day or two. 

 The guides are a significant part of the experience. Our guide Juan had unlimited energy and was hilarious.  Also, you're most likely sharing the experience with visitors from all over the world and you'll get a chance to know them better during meals and drives.

Aside from this outing, Aguas Blancas also has a Class II/III trip and 2-day excursions that combine rafting with horseback riding or mountain biking. 

"Row, you bunch of lazy grannies! ROW!", yells Juan. 

We can't help but laugh and enjoy the rapids.

Our team, the blue raft, celebrates the end of a great ride, on the Chilean border.