On my next trip to Argentina, I will definitely go back to Siga La Vaca, an excellent, inexpensive all-you-can-eat restaurant with several locations in central Buenos Aires and the suburbs (see map).  For US$20 per person you can indulge in appetizers, excellent beef, chicken, and/or pork, salad bar fare, sides and dessert.  Your first drink (wine, beer or soft drink) is also included.  Stop by for lunch on a weekday, and you pay less than US$15.  Incredible!

I visited their location in Pilar, a suburb of Buenos Aires.  The restaurant was spacious, warmly lit and had a fun, informal ambience.  It's family-friendly and can get a bit noisy.  The food was great - fresh, high quality meat grilled to your taste.  My favorite part of the meal was going up to the counter for seconds.  The asadores (grill cooks) display the meat, fresh off the grill, and you just point to what you like.  You'll see familiar food like steak, beef kebabs, chorizo (sausage) and chicken breast, along with some cuts and parts that may be new to you such as morcilla (black pudding), mollejas (sweet breads) and chinchulines (small intestine).  I really recommend that you try anything new.  "Just take a small bite," as your mom used to insist.  If you don't like it, you didn't waste your money and you can move on to something else you might like.  When else are you going to get such a great opportunity to discover new foods?  I'll bet that you become a fan of at least one of these adventurous foods andthat you find yourself back at that counter.  

The other nice thing about SLV is that you'll dine among regular Argentinean families. This may be the closest you get to a traditional family asado - the food, the laughter, the easy-going mood, the amped-up protein levels.  This is less true of the Puerto Madero location where half the clients are tourists, but on the other hand, this particular restaurant is open continuously from noon until 2am, accommodating both American and Argentinean dining schedules.  The restaurants are popular, and although they can take in over 400 diners in some locations, there may be a wait during peak times. 

SLV locations in Central Buenos Aires.  They also have a take out place in Belgrano and restaurants in Pilar and San Isidro

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When you think of all-you-can-eat, the term "wine choices" doesn't immediately leap to mind.  Unless you are in Argentina!

Personally, I spend most of my time in Bariloche when I travel to Argentina.  Bariloche is located in Patagonia, in a region of mountain and lakes, southwest of Buenos Aires, on the border with Chile.  You get there via a 2.5 hour flight from BA.  Golfing, flyfishing, hiking are just a few of the summer activities available.  For a fun day trip, consider white water rafting with Aguas Blancas.  I went on the Class III/IV Rio Manso rafting trip . 

It starts with the Aguas Blancas crew picking you up at your hotel early in the morning, in their spacious vans. You're on the road for about an hour and a half.  The views are beautiful and the guides keep you entertained by sharing some mate (the tea of the gauchos) and by pointing out the notable sights along the way.  When you arrive at the launching site, you'll be served a breakfast of pastries and coffee.  You'll need the energy, so enjoy plenty of it.  Next, you're provided with wet suits, helmets and life jackets and given rowing and safety instructions.  Most of the guides speak English and they'll make sure you and your friends are assigned to a raft where instructions are given primarily or exclusively in English.  Then you are off!  

The trip starts calmly enough.  After all, Rio Manso means "tame river" so you would expect this smooth ride.  The Aguas Blancas team includes guides on kayaks, in case anyone falls out of their rafts or the raft guides need extra help.  Enjoy the calm while it lasts. Soon enough the white water appears and you're in for a thrilling ride! 

You'll raft for about 2 hours, arriving at the border with Chile, where the Aguas Blancas vans meet you.  After you change back into your clothes you'll all pile back into the van and be driven to the initial starting point on the Rio Manso.  Mmmmm... an asado (barbeque) is waiting for you, and you are ravenous.  After the late lunch, you're on the van back to Bariloche.  On the way, half the van is chatting and the other half is snoring.  It was a long, thrilling and unforgettable day.  Aguas Blancas provides a photographer so you can focus on the experience and still leave Bariloche with photos - the team will have a CD ready for you in a day or two. 

 The guides are a significant part of the experience. Our guide Juan had unlimited energy and was hilarious.  Also, you're most likely sharing the experience with visitors from all over the world and you'll get a chance to know them better during meals and drives.

Aside from this outing, Aguas Blancas also has a Class II/III trip and 2-day excursions that combine rafting with horseback riding or mountain biking. 

"Row, you bunch of lazy grannies! ROW!", yells Juan. 

We can't help but laugh and enjoy the rapids.

Our team, the blue raft, celebrates the end of a great ride, on the Chilean border.

An estancia is an Argentinean ranch, a country house.  Several open their doors to visitors and offer a variety of services and activities.  You can find estancias that are perfect for relaxing and enjoying the outdoors - some even provide spa services.  Others specialize in bird watching.  Most estancias offer horse riding, strolls in horse driven carriages and gaucho shows.  Want to try your hand at polo?  Find estancias that offer beginner classes.  Other activities often include golf, tennis, bike riding and fishing.  Oh, and pack your bathing suit - most estancias have a pool.

Within an hour or two (by car) of Buenos Aires, there are over 20 estancias to chose from.  They range from the super luxurious to the basic.  Prices are very reasonable -  as little as $200 per person per night, including all meals and basic activities. 

Estancieros are very proud of their culinary offerings and their traditions.  You will be treated to an asado (a full Argentinean barbeque), mate (traditional gaucho tea) and fantastic wine.  Most estancias will happily accommodate your taste and dietary requirements if you let them know ahead of time.

Welcomeargentina.com has compiled a nice list of estancias close to Buenos Aires.  Check out their photo galleries to see the beautiful airy rooms, the grounds, the dining options.  As I look at my plummeting thermometer and 8" of snow in my backyard here in New England, I wish I could make a reservation right now...(sigh)

Here are a few more to check out:

• Estancia Santa Susana - their standard service offers a 1/2 day of activities and meals, no overnights. Perfect if you're pressed for time
• Estancia Santa Rita
• Estancia Juan Gerónimo
• Estancia El Silencio

An acquaintance visited Estancia Monte Viejo last month and reports back that she had a great time. 

Please note that there are many estancias outside of Buenos Aires province.  I'll do some research and include those in upcoming posts. 

I would love to share your experiences with other readers, so please add your comments.

Estancia Santa Susana

Share a mate with a friendly gaucho!